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Osage County farmers help bring Kobe beef to Missouri
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By JESSICA ARRANT
News Tribune
Kobe beef is mysterious and unique. It is named after the region in Japan where the ancient genetic strain was bred.
Technically Wagyu beef in America, Kobe-style beef requires special raising and food-preparation techniques.
Terry Neuner, Westphalia, started raising the American Kobe a couple of years ago after experiencing its incomparable taste while in Japan.
"The taste is distinctive. The grade is higher and it should be comparatively more tender than regular cattle," Neuner said. "What's the difference between chicken and turkey? That's the difference between Wagyu and regular beef."
The marbling on a piece of Wagyu looks more like a spider-web compared to what most American steaks look like. It has a slightly higher fat content, but 71 percent less cholesterol than its Angus counterparts.
"Black Angus are generally considered to be the premier beef in the U.S. A full-blooded Wagyu is more tender, but studies have shown that an F1 (first-generation, cross-bred calf) is more tender than the full-Wagyu," Neuner said. "Eventually, I want to get some more Wagyu into the cattle, instead of 50/50."
The optimum taste of Kobe is derived from cattle that are fed more for longer periods of time. Neuner worked with the University of Nebraska to develop a diet high in barley and other distillers' grains for his cattle.
Steve Berhorst, Westphalia, grows some of the barley for Neuner. Barley growing seasons run from fall to June. Berhorst said he has been working with Neuner for 25 years and began growing barley when Neuner started raising the Kobe.
"Terry has been purchasing whatever he needs to feed the steers, and I use whatever is left for my cows," Berhorst said. "It is an easy crop, but the challenge is Mother Nature because the crops are near the flood plain."
The Kobe steers are fed the rich distillers' grains to help them develop the right kind of marbling, but the cows are fed another diet for now because Neuner is only using them for breeding.
The cattle are raised in a clean environment that allows for movement and is hormone free. Cattle are restricted in the amount they can forage so Neuner can maximize their special diet intake.
Neuner started by artificially inseminating 12 Black Angus cows from a Wagyu bull. After birthing eight calves, Neuner decided that he wanted to try for a higher return on his investment and bought a bull.
He now has about 50 calves on the way and has contracted with Madison's Cafe in Jefferson City to sell cuts as the calves grow and age appropriately.
Because of its high distinction in the market, Wagyu cuts retail at high prices on the Internet and specialty stores, and can cost $100 or more per cut.
With the local beef connection, Madison's Cafe is able to offer its meals at $22-$30 per plate.
"We like to keep things new, and get things that are an upgrade. American Kobe beef is a standard above anything else," said Rob Agee, owner of Madison's Cafe.
Cooking the beef requires a different set of skills than regular beef. On average, it cooks twice as fast so the Wagyu is pan-seared instead of grilled.
Agee also recommends that people order Kobe as rare, medium-rare or medium because cooking it higher will overcook it and the steak will lose much of its distinctive flavor.
"People should try Kobe if they want to try something they can't find anywhere else," Agee said. "This is like the Mercedes Benz of steaks. We already sell the Cadillac, but now we're carrying the Mercedes, too."
Technically Wagyu beef in America, Kobe-style beef requires special raising and food-preparation techniques.
Terry Neuner, Westphalia, started raising the American Kobe a couple of years ago after experiencing its incomparable taste while in Japan.
"The taste is distinctive. The grade is higher and it should be comparatively more tender than regular cattle," Neuner said. "What's the difference between chicken and turkey? That's the difference between Wagyu and regular beef."
The marbling on a piece of Wagyu looks more like a spider-web compared to what most American steaks look like. It has a slightly higher fat content, but 71 percent less cholesterol than its Angus counterparts.
"Black Angus are generally considered to be the premier beef in the U.S. A full-blooded Wagyu is more tender, but studies have shown that an F1 (first-generation, cross-bred calf) is more tender than the full-Wagyu," Neuner said. "Eventually, I want to get some more Wagyu into the cattle, instead of 50/50."
The optimum taste of Kobe is derived from cattle that are fed more for longer periods of time. Neuner worked with the University of Nebraska to develop a diet high in barley and other distillers' grains for his cattle.
Steve Berhorst, Westphalia, grows some of the barley for Neuner. Barley growing seasons run from fall to June. Berhorst said he has been working with Neuner for 25 years and began growing barley when Neuner started raising the Kobe.
"Terry has been purchasing whatever he needs to feed the steers, and I use whatever is left for my cows," Berhorst said. "It is an easy crop, but the challenge is Mother Nature because the crops are near the flood plain."
The Kobe steers are fed the rich distillers' grains to help them develop the right kind of marbling, but the cows are fed another diet for now because Neuner is only using them for breeding.
The cattle are raised in a clean environment that allows for movement and is hormone free. Cattle are restricted in the amount they can forage so Neuner can maximize their special diet intake.
Neuner started by artificially inseminating 12 Black Angus cows from a Wagyu bull. After birthing eight calves, Neuner decided that he wanted to try for a higher return on his investment and bought a bull.
He now has about 50 calves on the way and has contracted with Madison's Cafe in Jefferson City to sell cuts as the calves grow and age appropriately.
Because of its high distinction in the market, Wagyu cuts retail at high prices on the Internet and specialty stores, and can cost $100 or more per cut.
With the local beef connection, Madison's Cafe is able to offer its meals at $22-$30 per plate.
"We like to keep things new, and get things that are an upgrade. American Kobe beef is a standard above anything else," said Rob Agee, owner of Madison's Cafe.
Cooking the beef requires a different set of skills than regular beef. On average, it cooks twice as fast so the Wagyu is pan-seared instead of grilled.
Agee also recommends that people order Kobe as rare, medium-rare or medium because cooking it higher will overcook it and the steak will lose much of its distinctive flavor.
"People should try Kobe if they want to try something they can't find anywhere else," Agee said. "This is like the Mercedes Benz of steaks. We already sell the Cadillac, but now we're carrying the Mercedes, too."
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